This is essential for oiling most Swiss Machines and are very hard to find.The last time we discussed machine tools, we talked about how to choose the size of the new metalworking lathe that your wallet is itching to pour itself into. Price: 475 plus shipping SOLD Schaublin Pump Oiler. It is mounted on a 10mm arbor suitable for a Levin, Derbyshire or Pultra 10mm lathe. This takes a standard mount and can be used on a Levin, Schaublin 70, Schaublin 102 or even a machine that takes 5C collets.If you would like more information regarding the featured piece of equipment get in touch with me at bcoxmechanicalcurios.com Today I am posting about the Schaublin SV12. I will be doing individual posts on all machinery I have for sale with photographs of the accessories and a bit of information. Schaublin 102 Lathe 1,200 (cnj > Farmingdale, NJ ). Engine lathe milling machine heavy duty good old american iron 5,900 (nyc > westchester ) pic hide this posting restore restore this posting. The answer boils down to what your needs are, and what you want to get out of this machine.try the craigslist app » Android iOS CL.
Schaublin Milling Hine Craigslist How To Choose The![]() ![]() That may have been true back in the aughts when this consumer machine tool wave started, but it’s definitely no longer the case (much). The joke being they need so much fixing up to be good that they’re useless except as a bucket of lathe-shaped cast iron bits that you can use to make a lathe. The more skilled you get, the more you can get out of a good machine (and the more you can still manage with a bad one).Machinist snobs still refer to these imports as “casting kits”. Buying higher quality up front will help you take longer to grow out of the machine, so spend as much as you can afford. Consider the Timeline for Outgrowing Your First LatheThat said, the average quality level of these machines is now good enough that if you’re just starting out, you’ll learn a lot and can do good work on any of them. Contact the resellers, research online, and know what you’re paying for. The photo album tells the painful tale of transporting old iron.Nowadays, since the production in these countries has gone CNC, the old manual machines can be had for very little money. We covered this Monarch 10EE renovation a few years ago. They were built to last a lifetime with a company depending on them to do real production work, and were priced accordingly. These machines were not built to a budget price point like the consumer grade Asian machines of today are. There’s little debate that the machines built in the 20th century by Americans (and also Germans, Swiss, Brits, and others) are top quality. It’s also worth noting that the Old Iron is usually big and heavy. It can be challenging to find a ready-to-run vintage machine at a good price, though, so the Old Iron route is best if you’re looking for a project.Note that restoring an old lathe also often requires access to a lathe, because you may need to make shafts, bearings, bushings, etc. If the ways are good, everything else is fixable (depending on your willingness to do restoration work). You can learn to work around worn areas, but it’s arguably unrepairable. The number one thing to look for in an old lathe is bed (aka “ways”) wear and damage, especially near the chuck. Akai lpk25 setupThey will forever remain in their country of birth. It can be done- people have moved them down narrow basement stairs, but research the techniques involved to see if you’re up for it.In some parts of the world, Asian import will be your only choice, because the Grand Old Ladies of the 20th century are basically impossible to ship outside their country of origin for any kind of price that would be worthwhile. Moving one of these machines without a forklift and a loading dock can be a multi-day project, and you need to know what you’re getting in to. Also don’t underestimate the cost of stock. You will be amazed at all the tool bits, tool holders, drills, chucks, indicators, micrometers, files, stones, grinders, reamers, scales, squares, blocks, gages, calipers, etc that you will need, and how quickly you will need them. Experienced machinists always say this, and new machinists never believe it. You will spend that amount or more on tooling. Only spend half your budget on the lathe itself. Only Spend Half Your BudgetI’ll leave you with a final thought to burn deep into your psyche. Great shape stored in someone’s basement. The thing with old iron is that it’s in one of three conditions:1. I recently picked up a used knee mill and have been looking for a lathe. Quality stock can be quite expensive, but it’s very helpful when learning and will help you do quality work, so don’t forget about it.There are lots more considerations around specific lathe features that will determine the right machine for you, but we’ll get into that next time!Posted in Featured, Interest, Original Art, Slider Tagged buying guide, lathe, metalworking Post navigationExactly. But it’s been beat on for 30 years of daily use in a real shop, meaning the machine is pretty clapped out. Being sold by a shop/garage, appears to be in good condition. Restorable but it’s going to take a fair amount of elbow grease3. Only after looking for a few months did I find a #1 scenario, and even then the mill needed a good amount of restoration, repainting and rebuilding the spindle.Old iron is great if you can find a great deal… but a lot of it is literally just old, rusting iron.The hard part is that newbies often don’t know this and buy up a clapped out piece of old domestic iron, because of the constant preaching online. I almost bought a #3 style mill from a shop, but after playing with it for a bit it became clear why the shop was selling. I checked out multiple version of #2 and passed because it was too much work for me. There’s a reason manual shops sell manual machines… they are worn out.Scenario #2 and #3 are far more likely than #1. It doesn’t need to be leveled with Micron accuracy but you should make some attempt to make it as level as you can. If you don’t have time to level it you probably shouldn’t be using one.You can get away with a mill being out of level but a lathes inherent accuracy depends on it being level because of complex issues of torque being transmitted to an out of level bed. So to be perfectly frank I don’t understand the rationale and flippancy behind simply disregarding taking 20 minutes to properly level your lathe. If you have some wanky old antique with split foot and headstock support feet or something that the factory stand has the rigidity of a wet noodle to start with ymmv, but its not critical for every case to have any hope of accuracy.Mind you, I’m not one of those people claiming to be able to work to sub micron accuracy in a non temperature controlled environment…It is not splitting hairs or being overly anal to say a lathe specifically should be properly leveled before use.I have transported full size atlas lathes with cast iron stands to makerfaire for live machining demos with forklifts and still leveled them before use.If you have the time and money to actually buy a lathe, it stands to reason that you intend to make something more complex than a cylinder or at the very least spend a significant amount of money toward your hobby. In fact the factory says just to level it so the coolant drains correctly. And that’s just a medium sized engine lathe on the factory steel stand.
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